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Planer vs Jointer: What's the Difference & Which Do You Need?

Planer and jointer in a professional wood shop

Photo via Unsplash

Updated February 2026 3,200+ words 14 min read

The planer and jointer are the two most confused tools in woodworking. They look similar, both have spinning cutterheads, and both remove thin shavings from lumber. But they do fundamentally different jobs. A jointer flattens one face and straightens one edge to create reference surfaces. A planer makes boards a uniform thickness, parallel to an already-flat face. Understanding this difference - and knowing which to buy first - will save you hundreds of dollars and countless hours of frustration.

Quick Verdict: Planer vs Jointer

Buy a Planer First

If you can only buy one tool, get a thickness planer. It lets you dimension lumber to exact thicknesses, clean up rough-sawn boards, and save 50-70% by buying rough lumber instead of pre-surfaced stock from the home center. You can work around not having a jointer by building a simple planer sled to flatten one face, or by using a hand plane. A planer's ability to produce uniform thickness has no easy workaround.

Add a Jointer When You're Ready

Add a jointer when you start working with rough lumber regularly and want a faster, more precise milling workflow. The jointer creates the critical flat reference face and straight edge that your planer needs to produce truly flat, parallel boards. Together, these two tools form the backbone of a serious woodworking shop.

Planer vs Jointer: Side-by-Side Comparison

Here's a detailed breakdown of how thickness planers and jointers differ across every important dimension:

Feature Jointer Thickness Planer
Primary Function Flattens one face, straightens one edge Makes boards uniform thickness (parallel faces)
Input Rough, warped, or twisted lumber Board with one flat reference face (from jointer)
Output One flat face and/or one straight edge Board with consistent thickness, two parallel faces
How It Works Board rides over fixed cutterhead on flat tables Rollers feed board under adjustable cutterhead
Cutterhead Position Between infeed and outfeed tables (below the board) Above the board, adjustable height
Can Replace the Other? No - cannot make uniform thickness Partially - with a planer sled for flattening
Price Range $300 - $2,000+ $300 - $1,500+
Floor Space Large - long infeed/outfeed tables (4-6 ft total) Compact - benchtop models fit on a workbench
Infeed/Outfeed Clearance Equal to table length + board length 2x board length (board extends both directions)
Noise Level Moderate (80-90 dB) Loud (85-100 dB)
Dust Output Moderate - chips fall below Very high - powerful chip ejection requires dust collection
Board Width Capacity 6", 8", 10", 12", or 16" depending on model 12-13" (benchtop), 15-20"+ (floor models)
Skill Required Moderate - proper technique matters Low - feed the board in, it does the work
Safety Concern Exposed cutterhead during operation Enclosed cutterhead; kickback risk with thin stock
Portability Low - heavy, stationary machines Moderate - benchtop models are portable

What Does a Jointer Do?

A jointer is a machine with a flat infeed table, a flat outfeed table, and a spinning cutterhead positioned between them. The outfeed table is set precisely level with the top of the cutterhead's cutting arc, while the infeed table sits slightly lower. This height difference determines the depth of cut.

When you push a board across the jointer, the cutterhead shaves off material from the high spots on the board's face. After multiple passes, you end up with one perfectly flat face. The jointer also has an adjustable fence for straightening board edges at exactly 90 degrees (or any other angle you set).

What a Jointer Creates

  • One flat face (face jointing): Removes twist, cup, and bow from one side of the board. This becomes the reference face for planing.
  • One straight edge (edge jointing): Creates a perfectly straight, square edge for glue-ups, ripping, or referencing against a table saw fence.
  • Reference surfaces: Every subsequent milling step depends on the flat face and straight edge the jointer creates.

Critical Limitation

A jointer can only flatten boards as wide as its cutterhead. A 6-inch jointer can only face-joint boards up to 6 inches wide. This is the single biggest reason many woodworkers upgrade from a 6-inch to an 8-inch or larger jointer - wider boards are common in furniture making.

Why You Cannot Skip the Jointer

Rough lumber from the sawmill is never flat. It may be cupped across its width, bowed along its length, or twisted from corner to corner. Before you can do anything precise with that board - cut it to length, rip it to width, or plane it to thickness - you need at least one flat reference surface. That is what the jointer provides.

Without a flat reference face, a planer will simply reproduce the same warps and twists at a thinner dimension. The planer's feed rollers press the board flat against the bed momentarily, but the wood springs right back after it exits. This is the number one mistake new woodworkers make: running warped boards through a planer and expecting flat results.

What Does a Planer Do?

A thickness planer (sometimes called a thicknesser) is a machine with a flat bed, power-driven feed rollers, and an adjustable cutterhead above the bed. You set the desired thickness, place the board on the bed with the flat reference face down, and the rollers pull it through. The cutterhead shaves the top face to make it parallel to the bottom face at your target thickness.

This is fundamentally different from a jointer. The planer does not flatten - it makes two faces parallel. If the bottom face is cupped, the top face will be cupped too (just at a consistent thickness). The planer trusts that you already have one flat face and works relative to it.

What a Planer Creates

  • Uniform thickness: Every point on the board measures exactly the same thickness, to within a few thousandths of an inch.
  • Parallel faces: The top face is perfectly parallel to the bottom face (the reference face from your jointer).
  • Smooth surface: The cutterhead leaves a clean, smooth surface ready for sanding or finishing.
  • Custom dimensions: Dimension lumber to any thickness you need - 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", or anything your project requires.

Money-Saving Tip

A planer pays for itself quickly. Rough-sawn lumber costs 50-70% less than surfaced (S4S) lumber from the home center. A rough 4/4 walnut board might cost $8 per board foot versus $14-18 for surfaced stock. With a planer and jointer, you can buy rough lumber and mill it yourself. Use our Board Feet Calculator to estimate your lumber costs and savings.

The Snipe Problem

Most benchtop planers create "snipe" - a slightly deeper cut at the first and last 1-2 inches of the board. This happens because the board is only supported by one feed roller instead of two at those points. Strategies to minimize snipe include: feeding boards end-to-end, using sacrificial boards at the start and end of a run, supporting the board with auxiliary infeed/outfeed tables, or simply cutting boards a few inches long and trimming the snipe off.

The Complete Milling Workflow: Jointer + Planer

When you have both tools, here is the standard four-step process (called "four-squaring" or "milling") that transforms rough lumber into flat, square, dimensioned boards:

1

Face Joint One Side

Run the board across the jointer with the concave side down. Take light passes (1/32" to 1/16") until the entire face contacts the outfeed table. This creates your flat reference face. Mark it with a pencil so you remember which side is flat.

2

Edge Joint One Edge

Stand the board on edge against the jointer fence with the flat reference face against the fence. Joint until you have one straight, square edge. Now you have two reference surfaces at 90 degrees to each other.

3

Plane to Thickness

Place the board in the planer with the jointed face (reference face) down on the bed. The planer cuts the top face parallel to the flat bottom. Take passes of 1/32" at a time until you reach your target thickness. Now both faces are flat, parallel, and at exact thickness.

4

Rip to Width on the Table Saw

Place the jointed edge against the table saw fence and rip the board to final width. The straight reference edge ensures a parallel cut. Now all four sides are flat, straight, and square - ready for joinery.

Why Order Matters

You must joint before you plane. If you plane first, the feed rollers press out any cup or twist temporarily, but the board springs back after planing. You end up with a board that is a uniform thickness but still warped. By jointing first, you establish a genuinely flat reference that the planer works from. This sequence is non-negotiable for accurate results.

When to Use Each Tool

When to Use a Jointer

The jointer is your first-step tool whenever you are working with rough or imperfect lumber.

  • Flattening rough lumber: Every rough board from the sawmill or lumber dealer needs face jointing before it can be accurately planed
  • Straightening edges for glue-ups: Edge-jointed boards create tight, gap-free glue joints for panels and tabletops
  • Removing twist and cup: Boards that have warped during drying need the jointer to establish a flat starting point
  • Squaring edges to faces: The fence lets you joint edges at exactly 90 degrees to the face for square stock
  • Preparing stock for the table saw: One straight edge gives you a reliable reference against the table saw fence
  • Tapering (with a jig): Some woodworkers use jointer tapering jigs for furniture legs

When to Use a Planer

The planer handles all thickness-related tasks once you have a flat reference face.

  • Dimensioning lumber: Bring rough 4/4 stock down to 3/4", or any other target thickness
  • Making boards the same thickness: Ensure all boards in a project are identical - critical for tabletops, door panels, and drawer parts
  • Cleaning up rough-sawn faces: Quickly surface rough lumber to reveal grain and color
  • Resawing cleanup: After resawing on the bandsaw, the planer smooths the rough faces to final thickness
  • Creating thin stock: Make 1/4" drawer bottoms, 3/8" box sides, or any custom thickness
  • Reclaiming old lumber: Surface old barn wood, pallets, or salvaged lumber (check for nails and metal first)
  • Saving money on lumber: Buy rough-sawn lumber at 50-70% less than surfaced stock and mill it yourself

Pro Tip: The Planer Sled Workaround

If you own a planer but not a jointer, build a planer sled from a flat piece of 3/4" MDF. Shim the rough board with hot glue or wedges to prevent rocking, then run the sled and board through the planer. The MDF provides the flat reference surface. Flip the board off the sled and plane the other face normally. This works but is slower than a proper jointer.

Jointer Pros and Cons

Advantages

  • Creates truly flat reference surfaces that no other tool replicates as efficiently
  • Straightens edges for perfect glue-ups
  • Essential for working with rough lumber from sawmills and lumber dealers
  • Adjustable fence allows jointing at any angle, not just 90 degrees
  • Some models include rabbeting capability
  • Moderate dust production compared to a planer
  • Relatively quiet operation, especially with helical cutterheads
  • Long tables provide excellent accuracy on longer boards

Disadvantages

  • Cannot make boards a uniform thickness
  • Width capacity limited by cutterhead size (6" is common, often too narrow)
  • Large footprint - long tables take significant floor space
  • Exposed cutterhead is a safety concern
  • Requires proper technique to get flat results
  • Each pass removes only 1/32" to 1/16" of material
  • Quality benchtop models are limited; floor models are expensive
  • Heavy - floor-standing models weigh 200-500+ lbs

Planer Pros and Cons

Advantages

  • Produces boards at exact, repeatable thicknesses
  • Makes two faces perfectly parallel
  • Benchtop models are compact and portable
  • Easy to use - minimal technique required
  • Processes boards quickly with powered feed rollers
  • Pays for itself through rough lumber savings
  • Good benchtop models available under $500
  • Can create custom thicknesses not available at lumber yards
  • Handles wider boards than most jointers (12-13" benchtop)

Disadvantages

  • Cannot flatten warped boards on its own (copies imperfections)
  • Snipe at board ends is a persistent issue on benchtop models
  • Very loud - hearing protection is essential
  • Produces enormous amounts of chips - requires dust collection
  • Needs infeed/outfeed clearance of at least 2x the board length
  • Feed rollers can leave marks on soft woods
  • Minimum board length required (usually 10-12 inches)
  • Blade changes can be fiddly on some models

Which Should You Buy First?

This is the most-asked question in woodworking forums, and the answer is clear: buy a thickness planer first. Here is why.

Why the Planer Comes First

1. Immediate cost savings. A planer lets you buy rough-sawn lumber at 50-70% less than surfaced (S4S) stock. A rough 4/4 hard maple board might cost $5-7 per board foot compared to $10-15 for S4S. Over a few projects, the planer pays for itself. A jointer alone does not save you as much because you still cannot produce uniform-thickness boards without a planer.

2. The planer sled workaround. You can simulate a jointer by building a simple planer sled - a flat MDF board with shims or hot glue to hold your workpiece steady. Run the sled through the planer to flatten one face, then remove the board from the sled and plane the other face normally. It is slower and fussier than a real jointer, but it works. There is no equivalent workaround for a planer - nothing else produces boards at a uniform, precise thickness as efficiently.

3. Versatility. A planer handles more tasks than a jointer. Dimensioning lumber, making boards consistent, cleaning up resawn stock, producing thin boards for drawer bottoms - the planer covers all of this. A jointer does two things: flatten faces and straighten edges.

4. Compact footprint. Benchtop planers (like the DeWalt DW735 or WEN 6552T) fit on a workbench or mobile stand and store under a bench when not in use. Most jointers are larger and heavier, especially the 8-inch floor-standing models that serious woodworkers prefer.

When to Add a Jointer

Add a jointer to your shop when any of these are true:

  • You are regularly milling rough lumber and the planer sled workaround is slowing you down
  • You need perfectly straight edges for panel glue-ups (tabletops, panels, cutting boards)
  • You are processing hardwoods with significant warp, twist, or cup
  • You want a faster, more streamlined milling workflow
  • You are building furniture or cabinetry that demands flat, square stock

The Combo Machine Option

Some manufacturers sell combination jointer/planer machines that share a single cutterhead. You flip a table or adjust the configuration to switch between functions. These save space and money, but switching between modes takes time, and the machines usually compromise on capacity compared to standalone units. Popular in smaller European shops where space is at a premium.

Budget Recommendations

Starter Shop ($300-600)

Buy a quality benchtop planer (DeWalt DW735 or WEN 6552T). Build a planer sled for face flattening. Use a hand plane (#5 or #7) for edge jointing. This gets you 80% of the way there.

Growing Shop ($600-1,500)

Add a 6" benchtop jointer (Grizzly G0725 or CUTECH 40160H-CT) to your existing planer. This is the most common home shop setup and handles the vast majority of woodworking projects.

Serious Shop ($1,500-4,000+)

Upgrade to an 8" floor-standing jointer with helical cutterhead and keep your benchtop planer, or upgrade both. This setup handles any project with speed and precision. Consider our Shop Setup Guide for layout planning.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need both a planer and jointer?

For a complete lumber milling workflow, yes - you ideally need both. A jointer creates the first flat reference face and one straight edge, while a planer makes the board a uniform thickness parallel to that reference face. Without a jointer, you cannot guarantee the planer will produce a truly flat board since it follows existing contours. However, many woodworkers start with just a planer and use workarounds like a planer sled or hand planes to flatten one face before running boards through the planer.

Which should I buy first - a planer or jointer?

Buy a thickness planer first. A planer is more versatile because it can dimension lumber to exact thicknesses, clean up rough-sawn boards, and save you significant money on lumber costs. You can work around not having a jointer by using a planer sled (a flat piece of MDF or plywood that holds the board) to flatten one face, then flip the board and run it through normally. There is no good substitute for a planer's ability to make boards a uniform, precise thickness.

Can a planer replace a jointer?

Not directly. A planer's rollers press a board flat against the bed, then the cutterhead removes material from the top face parallel to the bed. If the bottom face is cupped or twisted, the rollers will press it flat momentarily, but it will spring back to its warped shape after passing through. This means a planer copies imperfections rather than removing them. However, you can build a simple planer sled - a flat piece of MDF with shims or hot glue to hold the board - to simulate jointing. This gives you a flat reference face that the planer can then work from.

What width jointer do I need?

The jointer's width capacity limits the widest board you can flatten in a single pass. A 6-inch jointer handles most common tasks and fits smaller shops. An 8-inch jointer is the sweet spot for serious woodworkers, handling wider boards and providing more stable results. Jointers 10 inches and wider are for professional shops working with wide stock regularly. Remember, you can always joint one face of a board wider than your jointer by making multiple overlapping passes, but edge jointing is limited to the machine's width. Most hobbyists do well with a 6-inch or 8-inch model.

Can I use a hand plane instead of a power jointer?

Yes, a well-tuned hand plane (specifically a No. 7 or No. 8 jointer plane) can do everything a power jointer does - flatten faces and straighten edges. Hand planing is quieter, produces no dust, requires no electricity, and takes up almost no space. The trade-off is speed and skill: hand planing a rough board flat takes considerably longer and requires practice to do accurately. Many woodworkers use a hybrid approach - a hand plane for face flattening and edge jointing on occasional pieces, and a power jointer for batch processing multiple boards.

What is the difference between a benchtop planer and a full-size planer?

Benchtop planers (like the DeWalt DW735 or WEN 6552T) typically handle boards 12-13 inches wide, use disposable double-sided blades, run on 15-amp 120V circuits, and cost $300-$700. Full-size (floor-standing) planers handle 15-20+ inch boards, use resharpenable knives or helical cutterheads, often require 220V power, and cost $1,000-$5,000 or more. For most home woodworkers, a benchtop planer provides excellent results. The main reasons to upgrade to full-size are wider capacity, quieter operation with helical heads, better snipe control, and higher volume capability.

Related Guides

Best Thickness Planers

In-depth reviews of the top benchtop and floor-standing thickness planers for every budget.

Best Jointers

Our top picks for benchtop and floor-standing jointers, including helical cutterhead models.

Board Feet Calculator

Calculate lumber costs and board footage for your projects. See how much you save milling your own.

Dust Collection Guide

Essential for planers and jointers - proper CFM, filtration, and ductwork setup.

Shop Setup Guide

Plan your workshop layout including tool placement, dust collection, and electrical needs.