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Complete reference for router bit types, profiles, and applications. From edge forming to joinery bits, find the right bit for your woodworking project.
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Edge forming bits create decorative profiles along the edges of boards. Most feature a bearing guide that follows the workpiece edge.
Creates a smooth, rounded edge. The most versatile edge-forming bit for furniture and cabinetry.
Cuts a flat, angled edge typically at 45 degrees. Creates a clean, professional bevel on edges.
Creates an S-shaped profile combining concave and convex curves. Classic furniture edge detail.
Cuts a concave quarter-circle profile. Often used with roundover bits for matched pairs.
Creates a rounded bead profile, often with a decorative step. Traditional look for furniture and trim.
Joinery bits create interlocking joints for strong wood connections. Essential for cabinetry and furniture making.
Creates angled pins and tails for strong, attractive joints. The hallmark of quality craftsmanship.
Cuts interlocking rectangular fingers. Simpler than dovetails but provides excellent glue surface.
Cuts an L-shaped step along edges. Essential for back panels, glass installation, and lap joints.
Flat-bottom bit for grooves, dadoes, and mortises. The workhorse of router bits.
Matched set creates interlocking tongue and groove for panel glue-ups and flooring.
Specialty bits handle specific tasks like template routing, trimming, and cutting special materials.
Bearing follows template or surface below. Essential for template routing and edge banding.
Bearing on shank follows template above workpiece. Ideal for router table template work.
Helical flutes eject chips upward. Excellent chip clearance for deep cuts and mortises.
Combines upcut at tip with downcut above. Clean edges on both faces of plywood and laminates.
Decorative bits create ornate profiles for traditional furniture, moldings, and architectural details.
Creates the classic Roman ogee profile with step. The signature look of traditional furniture.
Multi-curve profile combining cove, bead, and fillet. Rich architectural detailing.
Large bit creates crown molding profiles in one pass. Requires powerful router and slow speed.
Creates beveled raised panels for cabinet doors. Large diameter requires router table use.
Use these recommended speeds based on bit diameter. Always start slower and increase if needed.
| Bit Diameter | Maximum RPM | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 1" | 22,000 - 24,000 | Full speed for most routers |
| 1" to 1-1/4" | 20,000 - 22,000 | Slight reduction |
| 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" | 18,000 - 20,000 | Medium reduction |
| 1-1/2" to 2" | 16,000 - 18,000 | Significant reduction |
| 2" to 2-1/2" | 12,000 - 16,000 | Router table recommended |
| 2-1/2" to 3" | 10,000 - 12,000 | Router table required |
| Over 3" | 8,000 - 10,000 | Heavy-duty router table only |
Quality bits make all the difference. These sets offer excellent value for beginners and professionals.
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1/2 inch shank router bits are stronger, more stable, and produce less vibration than 1/4 inch shanks. They can handle heavier cuts and last longer because the larger shank flexes less under load. Use 1/2 inch shanks whenever your router accepts them. 1/4 inch shanks are suitable for lighter trim work and smaller routers, but are more prone to breaking under stress or when making aggressive cuts.
Carbide-tipped router bits stay sharper 10-25 times longer than HSS (High Speed Steel) bits and can handle harder materials including plywood, MDF, and hardwoods without dulling quickly. While more expensive upfront, carbide bits are more economical long-term because they need replacing far less often. HSS bits are only recommended for softwoods and very occasional use where the lower cost outweighs the shorter lifespan.
Larger bits require slower speeds to prevent burning and maintain safety. For bits up to 1 inch diameter, use 22,000-24,000 RPM (full speed on most routers). For 1-2 inch bits, use 18,000-22,000 RPM. For 2-2.5 inch bits, use 12,000-16,000 RPM and work on a router table. For bits over 2.5 inches, use 8,000-12,000 RPM with a heavy-duty router table setup. Always start slower and increase speed only if needed for a cleaner cut.
Bearing-guided bits have a ball bearing that follows a template or the workpiece edge, making them self-guiding without needing a fence. They're ideal for edge profiles and template work. Non-bearing bits (also called pilotless) require a fence, edge guide, or guide bushing for control. They're used for grooves, dadoes, and router table work where the fence provides consistent guidance. Some bits come with interchangeable bearings to adjust the cut depth.
Start with these essential bits that cover most common tasks: 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch straight bits for dadoes, grooves, and rabbets; a 1/4 inch roundover for softening edges on furniture and projects; a 45-degree chamfer for decorative beveled edges; a flush trim bit for template work and edge banding; and a rabbeting bit with bearing set for back panels and joinery. A quality starter set from Freud, Whiteside, or Yonico will include most of these and save money over buying individually.
Router bit burning is caused by friction from several factors. Use sharp carbide bits (dull bits generate more heat), reduce RPM for larger diameter bits, and maintain a steady feed rate that's not too slow (pausing or moving slowly causes burn marks). Take multiple shallow passes instead of one deep cut, especially on hardwoods. Avoid stopping the router mid-cut as this leaves burn marks. Clean pitch and resin buildup from bits regularly using a dedicated bit cleaner or simple green solution.